It's also when we've stopped counting our departure from Bamako in months and started counting in days. Today we have 85 days left (just over 12 weeks).
Work has been busy but things are winding down for me. My EER (annual employee evaluation for the foreign service) is done and filed with HR in DC. Our airfares home and onward to Phnom Penh are booked - we have 11 flights in all. Medallion status here we come!
We'll definitely be sad to leave, but equally excited to see what lies ahead in Cambodia. Of course, Mark and I are very happy to enjoy some of the comforts of being back in the good ol' U.S. of A. Traffic laws that people generally obey - yep. Dunkin' Donuts medium iced almond milk latte (don't judge me) - check. Relatively stable power grid - you betcha!
When we were assigned to Bamako back in 2016, we were, how to say, less than thrilled. Once here, though, I have to say we've been pleasantly surprised. Mostly by the people. We were warmly welcomed into the Embassy community by both Americans and Malians. In general, people are friendly and inquisitive, especially when we are out with Cosmo or on our bicycles.
Here's a parting shot of the Niger River from the western suburbs of Bamako
For anyone interested in visiting or living in West Africa, here are some general tips based on my oh-so-extensive experience. I suspect these hold true for most places outside of the U.S.
- Practice Patience: if you're not normally a patient person, work on it. Things move slower, take longer, and are often put off for another day - especially if it's a Friday.
- Be Flexible: In the U.S. and Europe we're used to strawberries in December and lettuce in August. In Mali, we have fresh strawberries in January and part of February. That's it. Want strawberries in July? I hope you froze some in January, otherwise have some Bonne Maman preserves. Choices are much more limited for most things. But, when something is available - get it if you want it. We once saw Starbucks bottled iced coffee drinks in a Turkish grocery store. We bought some and then WhatsApp'ed others that they were there. I think that store sold out in one or two days.
- Be Open and Friendly: most people are pretty nice. A smile and a "hello" or "bonjour, ça va" go a long way. If you go the extra mile to learn a few greetings in the local language - "ini sogoma" in Bambara for us - you'll get a great response. However...
- Be Situationally Aware: this isn't the U.S.A. or Europe. Laws can be lax; corruption is a big problem; things can go downhill quickly. Always beware of where you are and who's around you. Trust your instincts, too. If you feel weird or uncomfortable, then leave.
- Be Compassionate - Responsibly: West Africa, in general, and Mali specifically are poor. There's no denying it. It's good to give money, or goods, or your time. But choose wisely. Giving a few coins to the kids begging in traffic only encourages them to keep doing so; and it perpetuates the corruption associated with it - they have to pay off their "handlers". There are lots of orphanages that need money or clothes or toys. There are other organizations that help with mental health support (which is sorely lacking in most of West Africa) or education, or empowering women and girls. Or just give away your lunch leftovers.
- Finally, be prepared for The Mess: Let's face it, it's a messy, smelly world outside of the U.S.A. Get ready for the dust and dirt. And some things just stink - like Fakoye (or Fakouwé). Don't get me started on people reheating that in the work microwave. My staff has been trying to get me to try it for two years - not gonna happen.
